Some restaurateurs describe the pursuit of awards as a mere by-product of their quest to offer the best dining experience. Others burn out or go bankrupt seeking accolades. Somewhere in the middle, Maria Archer and Ahmet Dede have leveraged them to structure the growth of their west Cork restaurant business.  When I speak with Archer the day after their fine-dining Baltimore establishment, Dede at Customs House, was again crowned best restaurant in Ireland at the Restaurants Association of Ireland Awards on Monday, she remarks that the RAI had never given the prize to the same location two years in a…

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