On a breezy, sunny, sea-smelling day, I arrived in the coastal Co Dublin town of Malahide to meet Tony Gibney, the publican and owner of Gibney’s. I hadn’t been in Malahide, a seaside suburb of North Dublin, known for its charming village, sandy beach and busy boating marina, for about 20 years. It’s as pretty as ever, and I can see from its upmarket boutiques and restaurants, even more affluent than I recall.  I soon find Gibney’s pub with its granite facade and red doors tucked away at the end of a pretty pedestrianised street. There has been a pub…

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