Speaking to the chefs, operators and owners of Ireland’s restaurants, you can’t help but be struck by their compulsion to do what they do. Many cannot visualise themselves doing anything else, as their love of food and hospitality has pulled them headlong into an industry famous for arduous hours, tight margins and widespread closures. Turning a profit has always been a challenge. Building an eatery into a long-term favourite, somewhere that plays host to life events like weddings and birthdays, is even more difficult. Yet despite this, restaurateurs continue to open up, to innovate, to adapt. In some ways, the…

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