Budapest is turning the page. In recent years, a rise in tourism, a culinary flowering and a change in local tastes and habits have transformed the heart of Hungary’s capital. Meanwhile, the electoral defeat of longtime prime minister Viktor Orbán in April has ushered in an upbeat, hopeful vibe that seems to have shaken off the last remnants of communist-era gloom. With so much change happening in a city that is still marked by its Belle-Époque heyday, here is how to get the best of what is happening right now. Buda and Pest The city’s two main components, hilly Buda…

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